I am fond of Egypt and its people.  I love the crowded and noisy Cairo, the pedestrians dancing their way between cars, the rush in Khan El-Khalili, the smell of sheesha and tea on the sidewalks, and the sight of people passing by.  Cairo is theatre, cinema, and millions of books.  In Egypt, I feel the glory, and find the Egyptian people great in their humbleness and simplicity, like the sphinx, serene and firm on the ground as the caravan of war, peace or turmoil passes by.

Now it was time to leave; and we said goodbye, leaving behind a piece of our hearts enjoying the warmth of the morning sun.  We got in the car and reached Ismailiya, full of mosquitoes.  We crossed the Suez Canal and remembered the exciting Nasser's time when he took over the canal.  We remembered the victory of the great Egyptian army as it burst through the "Bar-lev Line" for freedom and hope.  We crossed the Sinai desert, suddenly full of construction and building.  We finally reached the Rafah border crossing, and our agony started.  Although, the journey from Cairo to Rafah was longer, the Rafah crossing was more exhausting and nerve wrecking.

The occupation was there with its symbols, arrogance, and ugly face that hides behind a one way mirror or occasionally appears filled with looks of provocation and defiance of human dignity.  Orders are dictated and given to us by a Palestinian policeman, who feels the humiliation and frustration like us.  The person in charge orders me to take off my glasses and go through the security gate that keeps beeping every time I pass.  She orders me to empty my pocket, take off my belt, and finally take off the shoes, which I felt like striking at the earth and on all those that speak about peace.

Is this the crossing point to the liberated land?  Nonetheless, it is still much easier than exiting through Erez "Beit Hanoun" checkpoint, where a series of cages and groups of soldiers enjoying the look of helplessness and need in people's faces wait for the traveler.

We hear the voice in the radio saying that Palestinian officials are cautiously optimistic about reaching an agreement with the Israelis in Washington.  Al Quds newspaper proclaims that a Security Agreement was reached as a prelude to the conclusion of the "Wye Plantation" summit.

Today, I am sure that the sides will reach an agreement, especially that Sharon is there.  He is a man of his word, what the US wants after Netanyahu baffled the world with his words and promises!  They will agree to withdraw from more land, to create a natural reserve, to lay out the security arrangements for the opening and functioning of the Gaza airport, to discuss the safe passage between Gaza and the West Bank, and to release some prisoners from Israeli jails.  All this gives room for joy and hope in the future.  However, the question still persists, "Will the occupation be ended? Or will a new piece of land be put under the Palestinian administration while maintaining Israeli control over borders, stranglehold on people's lives, settlement building and expansion, and withdrawal of ID cards?"

It is a joy to see the Palestinian flag raised over Palestinian land.  However, will that only create a new class of VIPs that look down with disdain on the long lines of laborers trying to get permits to pass and permits to live?  We are overjoyed by the return of every bit of Palestinian land, and by the paving of a new street or even sidewalk.  Yet, true joy will not be felt until the last manifestations and remains of the occupation are removed, injustice and oppression abolished, prisoners released, Palestinian IDs are printed in Arabic, with smiling pictures, and stamped with the seal of freedom.


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